How We Test Chainsaws
To evaluateĀ chainsaws, we considerĀ how well they cut, how easy they are to handle, and how safe they are to operate.
Using 10-inch-thick oak beams, we time how long it takes for each saw to work its way through the wood. We use oak because itās one of the hardest woods most users will encounter on their property, and it makes for a particularly demanding test that reveals differences among models. Those that cut fastest earn a higher rating for cutting speed.Ā
We assess how each saw handles, considering its weight and how easy it is to make horizontal and vertical cuts, and checking for any vibration.
For ease of use, we look at a number of factors, including how simple it is to start, adjust, and maintain a saw. We also size up safety features, check for any kickback during the course of cutting, and assess whether a modelās exhaust parts, like the muffler, get hot, which can pose a burn hazard.Ā
Weāve also added ratings for predicted reliability and owner satisfaction, which reflect what thousands of CR members told us about their experiences with chainsaws they purchased new. Specifically, they reported whether their chainsaws ever broke or stopped working properly over the first five years of ownership, as well as whether they are extremely likely to recommend their chainsaw to a friend or family member.
Shopping Chainsaws by Type
Here we drill down into each type of chainsaw. Weāve also included electric loppers, which are a good option for small cuts and are safer to use when cutting above shoulder level.
Gas-Powered Chainsaws
These tend to cut quickly and smoothly. Their fast chain speed means less pressure is required from the user to make clean cuts, compared with some underpowered electric models, making them the best bet for heavy-duty work, such as downing large limbs and trees. Theyāll also run continuously if you keep adding gas, making them the best choice if you have a lot to cut. But most are heavier and noisier than the electric versions. They also require fueling and regular service of the engineās air filter and spark plug, and they emit exhaust fumes. Like all gas-powered tools, gas chainsaws produce potentially deadly carbon monoxide, so you should never operate one indoors. Starting one requires several hard yanks on a pull cord. Chain-bar lengths are typically 16 to 18 inches for homeowner saws, longer for pro models.Ā
Cost: $140 to $420
Corded-Electric Chainsaws
Most electric saws have a plug-in power cord and cost less than gas-powered models. They typically weigh less, and they all start effortlessly: Just plug them in and squeeze the trigger. But their slower sawing speed limits them to lighter-duty chores, such as shaping hedges, or trimming the occasional small tree limb. Their power cord keeps you tethered to the nearest electrical outlet. Youāll also need a 14-gauge or even heavier 12-gauge extension cord to get the amperage needed for optimal performance. Keep in mind that extension cords of that size max out around 100 feet, so you wonāt be able to cut any farther than that distance from an outlet, and you should never string multiple extension cords togetherāit poses a fire risk.Ā
Cost: $40 to $300
Battery-Powered Electric Chainsaws
These saws free you from a power cord. They cost about the same as gas saws, and our most recent tests show that their performance can be as good asāand sometimes better thanāthat of a gas model. Run time is determined by the voltage and amp-hour rating of the battery, but expect about 30 to 40 minutes of semi-continuous cutting on a single charge, and about 60 minutes to recharge the battery. For reference, the best battery saw in our ratings cut through a 10-inch-thick oak beam 122 times on a single charge. These saws pack enough power to cut large tree limbs and even small trees. If you have other battery-powered outdoor gear, you should consider buying a chainsaw from the same brandāthe batteries are usually interchangeable.Ā
Cost: $180 to $330
Electric Loppers
If using a chainsaw strikes fear in your heart but you still need to cut through the occasional small limb, consider a light-duty power lopper. The cutting apparatus is mounted 2Ā feet away from the hand grips and shielded within a pair of safety jaws. Weāve tested two models weighing between 5Ā and 7Ā pounds. The lighter one makes it easier to reach a cut, especially if you use the optional extension pole, which adds up to 10Ā feet of reach for higher limbs. Both models feature a 6-inch retractable blade, making them safe for storage.
Cost: $70 to $150
Chainsaw Safety
You donāt have to watch horror movies to have a healthy fear of chainsaws. These formidable tools are involved in more than 27,000 accidents annually, according to the Consumer Product Safety Commission. The most common injuries are lacerations, particularly to the arms and legs, and some of the most serious injuries occur when the sawās chain snags and kicks back toward the operatorās chest and head. Chainsaws now have safeguards, including an automatic chain brake, that are designed to reduce the hazard of kickbacks. But even if you have a model thatās fully loaded with safety features, you need to take some safety precautions.
Dress Smart
Start with snug-fitting clothing and sturdy work boots, preferably steel-toed. Shield your legs with cut-resistant chaps and the backs of your hands with protective gloves, and wear a helmet with a face shield. Youāll also need hearing protection because practically all saws, including electric models, exceed the 85-decibel level at which hearing damage can occur.
Get a Grip and Stay Grounded
Grip gas-powered saws firmly when pull-starting and keep the saw on the ground; most handles include a spot for securing the saw with one foot while pulling the starter cord. Never saw while on a ladder or use the saw above shoulder height. If you must cut above shoulder height, use an electric lopper, whose encased cutting jaw makes it safer to use than a chainsaw, or hire a pro. And never saw using the tip of the chain and bar, where kickback can occur.
Maintenance Is Key
Upkeep is also an important factor in chainsaw safety. A chain thatās properly sharpened, tensioned, and oiled speeds cutting and helps prevent kickback while reducing wear on the chain and the bar on which it rides. A chain thatās too loose can also slip off the bar and toward the operator as it spins.
Remember Emissions
While most injuries associated with chainsaws are lacerations and amputations, all gasoline-powered tools produce carbon monoxide, a colorless, odorless gas thatās potentially fatal. Never run a gasoline-powered tool indoors or in any enclosed space.Ā
Chainsaw Video Buying Guide
For more, watch our video below.
Chainsaw Safety Features
Chainsaws are simple tools, essentially comprising an engine or a motor, a handle, and an oblong metal piece called the bar that guides the cutting chain. There are a lot of safety features, and the more a model has, the better. We assess those features and work them into our safety rating for every model we test. Here are the crucial safety features to look for on any saw.Ā
Reduced-Kickback Chain
Extra guard links and a less aggressive cutting profile help keep the chain from taking too large a bite, which can cause kickback. Most chainsaws also have a bar with a narrow tip or nose to limit the cutting area that generates the most kickback.
Chain Brake
This feature stops the chain almost instantly when the front hand guard is pushed forward or if the chainsaw kicks back. Most gas-powered chainsaws and many electrics now have one.
Chain Catcher
This metal extension beneath the guide bar helps keep a thrown chain from flying back toward the user. Most models have it, a plus, particularly if the chain is too loose because of improper tensioning and other maintenance.Ā
Trigger Lockout
Most chainsaws now include a separate palm switch that must be pressed before the throttle trigger engages.
Case or Sheath
A full case or a cover for the bar and chain helps protect against accidental cuts when you carry or store the saw. A case also helps contain oil leaks from the chain. You can find aftermarket cases if your chainsaw didnāt come with one.Ā
Automatic Chain Oiler
Even low-priced chainsaws now include this must-have device, which lets you keep cutting without having to stop and pump a plunger to oil the cutting bar. Thatās important because it allows you to keep both hands firmly on the chainsaw. A well-oiled bar and chain keep both from wearing prematurely and overheating, which can lead to a broken or thrown chain.Ā
Bucking Spikes
These sharp spikes near the base of the bar bite into logs and serve as a fulcrum, letting you pivot the bar and chain downward while cutting logs on a sawbuck or log stand. Most chainsaws include this simple feature; metal spikes tend to work better than plastic ones.Ā
Tool-Free Chain Adjuster
A hand-operated wheel-and-crank mechanism conveniently unlocks and locks the chain bar and moves it in and out, so you can adjust the chain tension without having to use a wrench or screwdriver. It can also improve safety by making proper adjustment quick and easy.Ā
Anti-Vibration
Most gas chainsaws have rubber bushings or metal springs between the handle and the engine, bar, and chain to minimize vibration. Without this feature, vibration can make sawing both onerous and fatiguingāa concern for safety as well as comfort.Ā
Reduced-Kickback Chain
Extra guard links and a less aggressive cutting profile help keep the chain from taking too large a bite, which can cause kickback. Most chainsaws also have a bar with a narrow tip or nose to limit the cutting area that generates the most kickback.
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